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Glass block comes in 8-in. and 6-in. squares and 4 x 8-in. half-block rectangles. You''ll need to choose between real mortar grout joints and clear silicone-joined blocks. We chose the silicone system because we liked the clean, uninterrupted look. Whichever way you go, buy the panel preassembled and banded together as one unit, ready to set into the opening. Remember that it''s easy to make the opening smaller by using furring, but it can be an ugly task to make it bigger. When going with mortar-grouted panels, figure each block is 8 in. wide, then add 1/4 in. to both the total height and width. If you''re ordering silicone-joined blocks, figure each block at 7-3/4 in. and don''t add the extra 1/4 in. The wall behind the toilet can be almost any height. For a standard toilet height of 15 in., make the wall a minimum height of 43 in. If you''d like a higher toilet, make the wall that much higher. Or, make the wall go all the way to the ceiling. We built a short wall to conserve space and to create a shelf and a mirror alcove. The wall at the opposite end of the shower can be any height as well. We made it the same height as the toilet/sink wall so we could line up the accent tile and make a convenient shower shelf.

Toilet/bidet area should be sequestered in a separate room, or at least behind a half-wall. Wall-mounted fixtures make cleaning easier, keeping the room more sanitary and healthy. Build tubs with a platform area, not steps. Tub controls should be accessible from inside or outside the tub and offset toward the room. Handrails make sense not only for safety, but they also make bathing children easier. Roll-in and walkaround showers are very popular and should include a bench seat 17[inches]-19[inches] high and at least 15[inches] deep. Make sure tile slopes toward drain to keep outside floor dry. Windows and skylights should be equal to at least 10% of the total square footage of the bathroom. Install auxiliary heating sources, such as electric radiant heat panels or a heat lamp/exhaust fan near the open shower. His-and her sinks are becoming the norm, with each mounted at a different height and a dressing table and vanity chair separating them. Full mirrors can be used in smaller baths to give them a larger feel, but overdoing it can affect depth perception.

You must get permits before tackling a bathroom remodel. Contact your building inspector to go over the scope of the project to find out exactly how much you''re permitted to do. When your permit is granted, you''ll receive a schedule list that''ll tell you when to call for inspections. Remember to shut off the water before demolition The special-order fixtures, fittings, shower pan, tile and glass block panel can take weeks to get in hand, so do the necessary legwork and ordering well in advance. Before gutting the bathroom, check to make sure that there are shutoffs for all the fixtures or a master shutoff for the entire bathroom. If not, buy ball valve shutoffs sized to fit your pipes. Then turn off the main water supply line where it comes into the house from outside, cut the pipes feeding the bathroom and install the new shutoffs right away. Hire pros before you get bogged down Don''t think you need to do the whole job solo if you don''t feel qualified or able to perform all the tasks, especially the plumbing and electrical work. Pros will greatly speed up the project, which is particularly important if the bathroom under construction is the only one in the house.

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